Eggplant Parmigiana, with hitches

I planned to make a red sauce -- one of the five "mother sauces" of French cooking, and a staple of Italian and Spanish cuisine -- as the foundation for Eggplant Parmigiana.

And then the second problem: The oven died.

Of course, several friends stepped up and offered to help -- to lend us their kitchens, but that wasn't practical, as our guests would be arriving around 5 p.m., and the Ravens were in the playoffs. (Our eldest daughter's a Ravens fanatic. What's up with that?)

In professional kitchens I've seen worse, so this presented not so much a problem as a challenge and an opportunity: Could we pull this off using only the stovetop? Surely, the new oven scheduled to arrive Wednesday will solve part of the problem.

But still, what to do this evening?

Then I remembered a meal from a while back at a local chain restaurant, where the food was OK, but the presentation was wonderful, and it was all cooked on the stovetop.

Thus was born the meal I present to you now, Eggplant Parmigiana with Marinara Sauce, angel-hair pasta and my signature vegetable dish, Spinach Milanese.

Everyone I know has his or her own version -- and opinion -- of red sauce, the foundation ingredient in all three parts of this lovely plate. There are hundreds of theories on tomato sauce -- known as gravy in Brooklyn and South Philly kitchens -- and each of them is correct.

My theory is that simple preparation and fresh ingredients make the best sauce: fresh tomatoes and fresh herbs, lots of patience and no sugar.

I started with Roma tomatoes from my garden. Remember the tomatoes we roasted and froze last fall? Basement, basement, three bags full! If you haven't done so in the past, put up your own tomatoes next fall; grow them or buy them at a local farmers' market. You'll be so glad you did.

So this is my version of a traditional favorite, made with locally grown tomatoes, even in January. The sauce gets its sweetness from caramelized onions and carrots, imported sweet paprika and patience. Cook the onions slowly and long, and leave the sugar in the cupboard. Try this presentation. It's beautiful and tasty and sure to win raves in your house.

5 pounds ripe fresh Roma tomatoes, peeled and broken up by hand

2 large onions, coarsely chopped

3 medium carrots, coarsely chopped

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 heads fresh garlic, peeled and minced

2 tablespoons sweet paprika

½ cup basil leaves, finely chopped

½ cup flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped

1 cup dry red table wine

¼ cup balsamic vinegar

2 bay leaves

1 teaspoon to 1 tablespoon crushed red pepper flakes (optional)

1 tablespoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Prepare the tomatoes: If using store- or market-bought tomatoes, fill a large bowl halfway with water and ice; bring 4 quarts of water to a rolling boil. In small batches, place the tomatoes in the boiling water for 90 seconds, remove and put into the ice water. When the tomatoes are completely cool, gently place them in a colander and empty the ice-water bowl. Peel the tomatoes and place them into the now-empty bowl. Break them up by hand and set aside. (If you must use canned tomatoes, try San Marzano plum tomatoes, three 28-ounce cans.)

Place the onions and carrots in a food processor and whizz until the mixture is smooth.

Heat a large, heavy pot over medium heat and add the olive oil. Then add the garlic and saut' until fragrant and just beginning to brown. Add the onion/carrot mixture and paprika, turn the heat down a notch and cook uncovered slowly until the mixture is almost dry. Don't rush this step; onions and carrots contain a lot of water. Cook 30 to 45 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Add the basil and parsley and cook 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, wine, vinegar, red peppers, bay leaves, salt and pepper, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, partially covered, for 2 hours, stirring every 15 minutes. At the end of 2 hours, adjust the salt and pepper to taste, cover and turn the heat off until ready to serve or package for the refrigerator or freezer.

1 large eggplant, peeled and cut into ½-inch slices

2 beaten eggs

1 cup whole-wheat flour

1 tablespoon dried oregano

1 tablespoon granulated garlic

1 tablespoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon ground ginger

¼ cup light olive oil

Provolone cheese, 1 slice for each eggplant slice

½ cup good Parmigiano cheese, shaved

Chopped parsley for garnish

Preheat oven to 300 degrees, then turn the oven off. Prepare two dipping pans, one with beaten eggs, one with a mixture of the next six ingredients (flour through ginger).

Heat a large, heavy skillet to medium-high and add the olive oil. Dip the eggplant slices in the egg, then in the flour mixture until well-coated.

Fry the eggplant slices until golden brown, turning once; drain on brown paper in the preheated oven.

Serve slices of eggplant, topped with a slice of Provolone cheese, a scoop of red Marinara Sauce, and grated Parmigiano. Garnish with chopped parsley.

Grate some fresh Parmigiano over the plate, and serve with a nice Italian red. The Spinach Milanese recipe can be found on my blog, jeffskitchen.net.n