More than the beach: Cape May offers shopping, food and historic sites
  • Known for its pristine beach, Cape May, N.J., has earned a reputation for having good restaurants and shopping opportunities.

  • These crab cakes are from the Mad Batter Restaurant in Cape May, N.J.

  • Tom takes an order at Hot Dog Tommy's in Cape May, N.J.

  • Visitors to Cape May, N.J. walk in Washington Street Mall while shopping and dining in the four-block stretch.

  • Visitors come to Sunset Beach in Cape May, N.J. to see the USS Atlantus, which has slowly been sinking in the Delaware Bay since 1926.

  • The Cape May Lighthouse was built in 1859 in Cape May Point.

  • The seashore town of Cape May, N.J., with its collection of Victorian homes, attracts visitors from all over the world and is a National Historic Landmark.

  • Stand-up paddle surfing is popular at Cape May Beach.

  • Crafts, like this turtle, were among the items sold at Harbor Fest in Cape May, N.J.

By ERIC G. STARK, Sunday News Travel Editor
Cape May
Updated Jul 02, 2011 19:44

With each bite, I could hear my doctor saying, "You ate what?"

Yes, the guy who suffers flare-ups of gout triggered by eating shellfish was sinking a fork into what the Mad Batter Restaurant server said were the best crab cakes in Cape May.

With an endorsement like that — gout flare-up or not — I had to give them a try. I had two, and started the evening with a bowl of Southwestern Crab Bisque.

The bisque and the cakes were fantastic so, yeah, the server was correct. They were the best crab cakes I ever had.

But there is more to Cape May than crab cakes.

Dating back to the 1790s, Cape May is the nation's oldest seashore resort; it was officially declared a National Historic Landmark in 1976. Known for its pristine beaches, this area is a year-round destination that maintains diverse arts, culture and historical attractions.

My wife, Cindy, and son, Jesse, went to Cape May with me on Father's Day weekend. It was my first Father's Day and 11-month-old Jesse's first trip to the beach.

As someone who grew up going to the Delaware and Maryland beaches, I found Cape May to be a cleaner, less busy town. It is easy to get to attractions, often without driving.

The homes, many built during the Victorian Era, are well-maintained, with gorgeous flower gardens. This area is known for having the most bed-and-breakfasts, but it should also be known for its horticulture. In 2008 and 2009, Forbes Traveler placed Cape May among "America's 20 Prettiest Towns." The April/May edition of Old House Journal included the town in the Editor's Picks for "10 Favorite Historic Districts."

I was eager to see Jesse at the beach, visualizing him eating a lot of sand as he enjoyed one big sandbox. To my surprise, the little boy, who seems so fearless and enjoys swimming pools, fireworks, loud music, etc., did not like the beach. He didn't cry but just didn't seem to like the sand or the water flowing back and forth across his toes when his mother stood him at the edge of the ocean.

Luckily, there is more to Cape May than the beach.

We arrived at Summer Station "condotel" in the early afternoon Friday, after a three-hour drive. It was built as condos, then made into a hotel. The units are fully equipped apartments with kitchen, living room, bedroom and private balcony. We had two bedrooms, two bathrooms with showers, and a washer/dryer.

We were on the first floor, so we heard a little noise from guests above us. Some kids were a little loud one night from midnight until 1 a.m., which kept Cindy awake (I slept through this). Still, Summer Station, named after the old train station, was a very comfortable place. The location is wonderful — on Beach Avenue right across from the ocean, so there was no need to feed parking meters or move the car.

Hotel Manager Tim Conley was very nice, lending us two beach chairs. Rates now through Sept. 2 are $205-$310 per night.

Soon after arrival, we walked about five blocks to the Washington Street Mall information booth at Washington and Ocean streets and booked a Welcome to Cape May Trolley Tour. I like to take tours when I first arrive somewhere new so I can get the lay of the land. This 45-minute go-around covered a lot of ground, including historic sites like the Cape May Lighthouse, Emlen Physick Estate and newly restored World War II lookout tower. We also saw Sunset Beach and the remains of the USS Atlantis, one of 12 concrete ships built during World War I that is slowly sinking. The tour is $10 for adults, $7 for children ages 3-12.

After the tour, we took our first of several walks on the mall, a four-block stretch of ice cream parlors, sidewalk cafes, restaurants and shops, where flowers abound. The area is automobile-free, so families can stroll safely. The only downside is many of the shops are crammed with items, making it difficult to maneuver a stroller inside.

We had an early dinner at Mad Batter om Friday night. Sitting on the large porch, we enjoyed the sea breeze. Cindy shared her fish and chips ($13) with Jesse, and I let him try my crab cakes ($31). The bisque was $5.

Friday night we went on the Historic Haunts Combo Tour, which includes the Ghosts of Cape May Trolley Tour with a visit to the 1879 Emlen Physick Estate, which of course is haunted. The one-hour tour was $20 for adults, $15 for children ages 3-12. Our guide, Carol, was a great storyteller. "And all the stories are true," she said.

I also enjoyed the slow drive around at twilight. It was very pleasant outside, and between the stories of spiritualism and the view of the homes in the historic district, I became very relaxed.

We had breakfast at Uncle Bill's Pancake House Saturday (Cindy had corn pancakes) and at Oceanview Family Restaurant on Sunday. I think I liked the latter the most. Both had good food, but I had a great Oceanview Omelet and at least three members of the staff wished me a happy Father's Day, which I appreciated.

Late Saturday morning we drove to the Coast Guard base for the centennial celebration of Cape May Harbor, being held in conjunction with the city's fourth annual Harbor Fest. It combined elements of a street festival — with vendors selling crafts, artwork, photography and hats — with a flea market and a business expo. It included live music and demonstrations by the Coast Guard.

Of course there was fresh seafood there, including a scallop challenge, and a beer garden. Having indulged in crab cakes against my better judgment, I avoided the seafood.

Cindy's favorite part of the trip was Hot Dog Tommy's, which has a unique, creative menu. We saw this hole-in-the-wall joint on Jackson Street near Beach Avenue on our Welcome to Cape May Tour. The hot dogs are great — like the Big Bad Dog ($3.10), which is all-beef black Angus. You order toppings like chili and cheese ($3.75). Make sure to order "Stuff-In-A-Cup" like The Thunder Storm ($3.75), which is mashed potatoes layered with vegetarian baked beans, cheddar cheese and chopped onions. I had a Stewart's Root Beer Slushy ($2.15, 21 ounces).

Being fair-complected and with a small child, we avoided the beach during the sunniest hours. Cindy and Jesse took a nap, and I walked the 1.3-mile promenade. The beach requires passes. A day pass is $5; a three-day pass, $15; an eight-day pass, $25 (Saturday-Saturday). We ventured to the sand just before 5 p.m., and no one said we needed a pass. This was fortunate, as Jesse was not a fan, and we were back at the hotel pool, which he enjoyed, by 6 p.m.

Good thing there is plenty to do in Cape May.

Eric Stark is travel editor of the Sunday News. Email him at estark@lnpnews.com.

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