While measuring, squaring up and laying the field of tile for floors, walls or countertops can go very smoothly, there are always those pesky last rows to cut, protrusions to get around and obstacles to deal with. The challenge of cutting the tile is now at hand.

Ceramic and porcelain tile, probably the most common, are just two types of tiling materials that enhance the depth, texture and richness of any room’s décor. Much of the available ceramic and porcelain tile is easily installed by do-it-yourselfers who are willing to take on a challenge. If someone is capable of tackling the initial phases of a tile job, they should have no problem with handling the finishing touches and final cuts — if equipped with the right tools.

How a tile will take to various types of cutting techniques depends on the tile and its hardness. When talking about ceramic versus porcelain, porcelain for the most part will be bit more hard and brittle, requiring a little more TLC.

According to Bob Sullivan, tile mechanic for Indoor City, 481 Harrisburg Ave., porcelain tile tends to have a lot more surface tension. “If you push too hard, it can snap.”

As Sullivan pointed out, each tile is different and might require a little practice to figure out what works best. It doesn’t hurt to have a couple extra practice pieces to get the hang of it.

“Because of the surface tension on porcelain, it is possible to break it on the score line,” he added. “Actually, with some porcelain tile, especially the small mosaics, you can break it by scoring it twice hard.”

TOOLS OF THE TRADE

The most common tools needed for cutting ceramic and porcelain tile include a manual tile cutter, nibblers and an electric wet saw. Sullivan said many stores will lend cutters and nibblers to customers. All tile cutting tools are available for rent at rental stores. Chuck Chretien, representative at Rental Zone, 122 Seymour St., said the manual hand tool set, including a cutter and the nibblers, rents for an estimated $20 a day, while the cost of a day’s rental for various wet saws ranges from about $30 to $60, including the diamond blade. Angle grinders cost about $16 a day to rent.

SCORING AND SNAPPING

Cutting ceramic tile is easy because it’s relatively soft. Jigs and cutters make the job easy. A line is scored on the tile face and is lined up with the pointer of the clipper jaws. Squeeze the handle, and the two sides of the tile will break cleanly. Floor tile jigs work the same way, but look more like a regular cutting board to receive the larger tiles. The cutter table has a raised rod in the center and the handle is designed to push on the two sides of the tile evenly so that it will snap right on the score line.

Porcelain is a much harder and brittle tile and often requires sawing, not snapping, to get clean cuts, according to Sullivan.

CUTTING HOLES

Whenever possible, the job looks more finished if a tile that is cut around a pipe can be cut from either two edges of adjoining tiles, which needs to be planned into the layout, or cut into the middle of a tile. Sullivan said that most plumbing pipes in existing conditions can be disconnected so that the tile can slide over the part protruding from the wall or floor.

If the protrusion can’t be disconnected, cutting around existing pipes can be tricky. For pipes that are already connected, the tile will have to split around it. Putting marks on the top and side of the tile at the location of the pipe gives you intersecting lines that determine the centerline of the pipe. Draw a slightly larger circle with a coin or other round object. Cut the tile right through the center of the circle, then nip or saw out the half-circles that remain on the two halves of the tile.

Many pipe penetrations that are visible have escutcheons, or cuffs, around them for aesthetics, giving you a little leniency in the cut. If that is the case, Sullivan says a trade trick is to use a grinder to get a small square, but somewhat rough hole cut to receive the pipe.

He finds the location of the pipe and marks the square on the front side of the tile. Using a square held against the back along the square marked on the front, he transfers the location of the hole to the back of the tile.

By using the grinder with a 4-inch diamond wheel to break through the glazing and create a heavy score line, Sullivan slightly grinds a notch on each of the four lines inside the intended knock out. From the back, he then takes the grinder and repeats the method of cutting on each of the four lines until he actually shows light through on each of the four sides. He then taps out the square and uses nippers to clean up the hole if necessary.

If an investment of about $10 to $30 is feasible for the amount of holes needed, and if the protrusion requires a clean circular hole, the investment in a hole bit for tile is a possibility. Depending on the hardness of the tile, a tungsten carbide or diamond bit might work better.

WET SAW

A wet saw, which is a stationary blade with a moveable table and guide, is needed for cutting tile cleanly, according to Sullivan. The water keeps the blade cool and minimizes dust. Using a wet saw during warm weather is best done outdoors, but trust me when I say you don’t want to try to work with a wet saw in freezing conditions outside. Not only does the tray filled with water start to freeze, but your hands will only make it through cutting one or two tiles. If the saw is set up inside, drape nearby areas with plastic or old sheets to avoid having to clean up splattered, mucky tile residue.

The wet saw is set up over a shallow pan of water. Use a grease pen so the line you’re cutting doesn’t wash off immediately, and adjust both ends of the rip fence to keep the line straight. “Let the saw do the work. Keep the tile flat and square, and be careful not to twist the tile,” said Sullivan, who added that it is imperative to allow the blade to take the tile through at the very end of the cut so that it doesn’t break out.

To cut the corner out of a tile with a wet saw, mark the cuts on the face of the tile. Run each of the two cuts into the stationary blade until they reach the intersection. Because the blade is coming in from the top, there will be some tile material remaining on the underside. Simply tap the scrap piece to have it break away, and clean up the corner with nibblers.

NIBBLING

Tile nibblers perform the task that the name suggests, biting off a narrow strip from the edge of a tile. The mechanics of a nibbler make it spring back open between each squeeze. Pliers will do the job as well but don’t have the spring-loaded handle.

If you’re cutting a curved shape, a tip given by Popular Mechanics’ Home How-To manual suggests making a template out of thin cardboard or cardstock. Cutting slits along the edge of the template that needs to conform to the curve allows the cardboard bent in small increments to follow the needed contour.

Score the line freehand and then nibble away the excess. The edge can be cleaned up and smoothed by using a silicone carbide abrasive, or an 80-grit sandpaper. Sullivan likes to use a rubbing stone or carbide file to smooth the edge of cut tile.


Suggestions and tips are available on the Web by looking up “cutting tile” or by looking on sites such as www.diynetwork.com and www.extremehowto.com.


Roxanne McRoberts’ e-mail address is rmcroberts@lnpnews.com.