Things are brewing within local dining scene
  • Marshall W. Snively, deputy director, James Street Improvement District; Tom Baldrige, president, Lancaster Chamber of Commerce & Industry; Keith Orris, Franklin & Marshall administrator; and Lancaster Mayor Rick Gray, shown at left, pour drafts at the new Iron Hill Brewery & Restaurant on Harrisburg Pike.

  • J. Scott Martino is planning new touches for the menu at The Restaurant at Doneckers, where he is executive chef.

  • The new Iron Hill Brewery in Lancaster offers a casual ambience.

By STEPHEN KOPFINGER
Lancaster
Updated Oct 03, 2008 11:13


Editor's note: "On Your Plate" is an occasional series designed to sate the local appetite for newsworthy tidbits that relate to the local food-service industry.


Iron Hill Brewery has landed in Lancaster.

The regional restaurant and brewpub chain, hallmarked by its distinctive bird-in-flight logo, has officially opened its newest branch at 781 Harrisburg Pike, in the new College Row complex. Mayor Rick Gray joined city officials and representatives from Franklin & Marshall College, just across the street, for a celebratory "first pour" Nov. 28.

In addition to Lancaster, Iron Hill has six other locations in Pennsylvania and Delaware; Iron Hill's flagship restaurant opened in Newark, Del., in 1996. The Red Rose city has been on Iron Hill's wish list for some time.

"We've been looking at the area for a number of years," said director of operations Mark Edelson, who joked about perusing "every tobacco warehouse possible" in the city. Iron Hill worked with Campus Apartments, the developer of College Row, to secure a location. Edelson said he's pleased with the outcome, calling the F&M area "a great part of town."

The menu offers soups, such as a Roasted Carrot with crème fraîche, large salads and an extensive appetizer selection (which includes "Cheesesteak Egg Rolls" — fried onions and American cheese, matchstick potatoes, ketchup and horseradish chive sauce, $9.99). Dinner entrees, $14.50 to $22.99, include Hawaiian Spiced Ahi Tuna, Char-Grilled Flat Iron Steak, Four Cheese and Woodland Mushroom Lasagna and Iron Hill Meatloaf, served with "buttery smashed" Yukon Gold potatoes, "haricot verts, baby carrots, onion rings and cabernet demi-glace."

Sandwiches and seven kinds of wood-oven pizzas, $9.99 to $12.99, are also available.

The smoke-free dining areas and bar feature warm-toned woodwork with copper accents. Glass doors in one dining room look into the brewery, from which six house brands are available, including a new Vienna Red Lager. Iron Hill's popular Light Lager will also be on tap, along with Abbey Dubbel, Ironbound Ale, Pig Iron Porter and Raspberry Wheat.

Hours are 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Monday through Saturday; Iron Hill opens Sundays at 11:30 a.m. The restaurant will eventually offer Sunday brunch. Call 291-9800.

In charge at Doneckers

J. Scott Martino, executive chef at The Restaurant at Doneckers, is introducing some new touches to the longtime Ephrata fine-dining spot.

Martino, 28, has been with The Restaurant since September 2006, when he started as garde-manger, but he assumed the title of executive chef this past July. He took the helm from Greg Gable, who joined Doneckers in 2001 after serving as chef de cuisine at Philadelphia's legendary Le Bec-Fin.

Martino himself came to Doneckers with notable restaurant experience.

From 2003-06, he served as sous-chef at The Loft, an anchor in the downtown Lancaster dining scene since the 1970s, under chef/owner Gunter Backhaus. "He's my mentor, that's for sure," Martino says proudly. "When I have questions, he's who I go to."

For some time, The Loft has been offering periodic limited-seating gourmet dinners, spotlighting the ingredients of the seasons. Martino has started to do the same at Doneckers. The first such event was held in November; the next, scheduled for Dec. 14, is already sold out, but more dinners are planned. The December menu is centered on Oxtail Terrine, a Smoked Duck Consommé and an entree of Crispy Black Bass.

Martino is also hoping to "test out some recipes" by January to kick off a new menu that will also reflect a seasonal influence. Old favorites, such as The Restaurant's signature Filet Diane, will remain, and the traditional onion soup will be "the same as it's always been," Martino said. He described his plans as "a little bit of 'classical nouveau' ... but with touches of our own."

Gourmet dinner prices are $85, plus tax and gratuity. The next dinners are scheduled for Fridays, Jan. 18 and Feb. 22.

Also at The Restaurant, bar manager/mixologist Toni Mumma is crafting martini concoctions based on the new trend for flavor-infused vodka. Fall saw the debut of a pumpkin-flavored martini; the holiday season will see the launch of the "Epiphany," made with pear-flavored vodka and an accent of cranberry juice.

"Everybody's coming out with with a pear [vodka," Mumma said, adding that the bar has also seen success with pomegranate flavor, as well.

Call The Restaurant at Doneckers, 738-9501.

Dinner in Brickerville

It's long been known as a place for breakfast and lunch, but the Brickerville House is now open for dinner.

The restaurant at Route 501 and Route 322, just north of Lititz, served its first dinner Nov. 13. "It's about time," summed up owner/manager Robert Lownes, who recently assumed complete ownership of the historic eatery.

Appetizers are $5.95 to $9.95. Seafood entrees, $17.95 to $24, include Broiled Jumbo Lump Crab Cakes; steak, chicken and pasta entrees, $17.95 to $25, include Grilled Filet Mignon, and Sautéed Breast of Chicken Francais. A light-fare menu is also available.

Patrons are welcome to bring their own wine and spirits. Dinner hours are 4-8 p.m. Tuesday through Friday; restaurant hours are 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Monday; 10 a.m.-8 p.m. Tuesday through Friday and 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturday. Call 626-0377.

Catering with class

Locals know of Plum Street Gourmet, a presence on the area food scene for 18½ years.

There's still a business bearing the name at 347 N. Plum St., but chef/owner Anne Eshelman has decided to focus strictly on catering.

In the past, Plum Street Gourmet was a retail and catering operation, which once had a stand in Lancaster's Central Market. There was also a bakery on North Queen Street at one time. Now, Eshelman, who had the Plum Street property on and off the real estate market for some time, has decided to renovate the building for full-time catering.

"Custom catering is my first love," said Eshelman.

Plum Street will be launching a new Web site at the end of January. Call 394-3882.

You won't starve here

The site of the former Subway sandwich chain at the corner of North Prince and West Orange streets has taken on a creative edge with the opening of the Starvin' Artist Cafe. It opened Nov. 1.

Owner Bryan Swarr, of the former Just Like Philly Steaks on Columbia Avenue, says business has been good at the cafe, where the jazzed-up purple interior will be graced with the works of local artists on a rotating basis.

Menu items include hoagie selections, $3.99 to $7.49; deli sandwiches; "Starvin' Salads," $2.99 for a house salad to $7.49 for the meal-sized Prime Steak and Potato Salad; soups, chili and chowder; specialty sandwiches and fresh cookies, the latter available daily.

Hours are 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Sunday and Monday and 10 a.m.-8 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. The restaurant also stays open for First Friday events downtown. Call 397-3002.

Pizza, please

Nino's Pizza is planning to open later this month at 44 N. Queen St., in the Central Market Mall. The site once housed Isaac's Deli, which moved across the street to larger quarters in 2001.

•The following recipe comes courtesy of Scott Martino, executive chef of The Restaurant at Doneckers:

BUTTERNUT SQUASH SOUP

• 2 butternut squash, peeled and seeds removed

• 1 quart milk

• 1 jar truffle oil

• Salt and pepper, to taste

• ¼ teaspoon nutmeg

Place squash and milk in a heavy-gauge pot and simmer until squash is tender.

Strain and reserve liquid. Place squash in blender with enough liquid to puree; season.

Strain through a fine chinois (a conical metal strainer) and adjust consistency with milk. Keep hot. When ready to serve, ladle into a soup bowl.

Drizzle truffle oil over the top.



Stephen Kopfinger is a Sunday News staff writer. Contact him at skopfinger@lnpnews.com or at 291-8799.
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