(Editor's note: New Era Correspondent Wendy S. Caldwell is completing a co-op in applied anthropology at Millersville University. The program is aimed at understanding sustainable agriculture in Lancaster County. She is contributing stories related to the project throughout the summer.)

Fresh from making a purchase at the Hodecker's Celery stand at Lancaster's Central Market, Betty Helm had a quick reply to the question: What is sustainable agriculture?

"It means we shouldn't sell all of our farmland for houses," Helm responded, although she quickly pointed out another side to the issue of sustainability.

"I can see why the aging farmer would want to sell his land if his children don't want to farm anymore. And he should be able to make a profit off of working so hard all of his life," Helm said.

Helm, a Lancaster County native now living in Lehigh County, was one of several market shoppers informally surveyed about their perception of the concept of sustainable agriculture.

When asked, some shoppers paused, looking to the market's Romanesque ceiling for an answer.

Tammy Pugliese of Willow Street was among those who simply answered, "I would have no clue."

The Pennsylvania Association for Sustainable Agriculture (PASA) wants more Pennsylvanians to know the answer. The group works to foster improvement in economic prosperity, environmental protection and social propriety of Pennsylvania food and agricultural systems.

"Doesn't everyone want to have a good relationship with the farmer who is growing our food?" PASA executive director Brian Snyder asked. "When you buy local food, you support the local economy, you lessen the negative impact on ecology and you maintain the local heritage."

Snyder emphasized that Lancaster County plays a key role in the sustainable agriculture movement.

"If this concept can't succeed in Lancaster County, with its strong (farming) heritage, then it won't succeed anywhere."

PASA is a statewide non-profit organization based in Centre County with nearly 4,000 members nationwide. Nearly 20 Lancaster County businesses and non-profit agricultural organizations are members of PASA, including Kegel's Produce in East Hempfield Township.

John Groft, Kegel's vice president of operations, said his company joined PASA two years ago as a way to help farmers and businesses work together.

"We help the farmers by asking, 'How can we buy the local product and sell it to local restaurants and grocery stores'," Groft explained, adding that marketing is key to successfully sustaining agriculture in Lancaster County.

"Farmers, produce suppliers and the buyer all have to work together to brand Lancaster County's agriculture, especially outside of the county."

Lancaster residents, such as Tammy Pugliese, already are practicing sustainable agriculture methods, perhaps without realizing it.

Pugliese, who was visiting Central Market with her family, said she and her family have a tradition of freezing over 13 dozen ears of Lancaster County sweet corn each summer.

Pugliese's niece, Janelle Groff of Willow Street, said she understands how this preserves a cultural and social tradition.

"All the kids in the family husk and clean the corn, and then we bag and freeze it, and share it with the whole family," Groff said, adding that while she couldn't give an exact definition for sustainable agriculture, she could see that by shopping at Central Market, and freezing corn, she unknowingly had a grasp of the concept.

For Doug Levering, 31, of Lancaster, a twice-a-week Central Market shopper, discussions about sustainability in agriculture are vital to maintaining local culture.

"It's a great topic to talk about because we must think about the production (within) our food community over the long term," Levering said.

Snyder agreed, saying that there is so much interest in sustainable agriculture that PASA is growing to meet the needs of agricultural producers. PASA will open a satellite office in northern Chester County in the fall to serve southeastern Pennsylvania interests.

Snyder, who operates a sheep farm in Centre Hall, said sustainable agriculture relies on using common sense.

"Protect the local economy, the integrity of the soil, and the culture. That's what we are talking about here," he said. "Sustainable agriculture is a national movement, and Lancaster County is the ground zero for this effort."