A lot of people think fungi are fantastic.

In fact, the hunting of wild mushrooms is so popular that in certain areas of the United States, varieties like the chanterelle (Cantharellus cibarius) are becoming scarce.

Locally, there are a number of mushroom fanciers who say they've devoted entire seasons, mostly spring to fall, to hunting and gathering fungi for fun.

"I used to hike, but now I stalk around for mushrooms in the woods," Lancaster resident Daniel Yanek said. "Not that you should ever do that casually, because some 'shrooms can be poisonous. But I learned everything I know from my grandfather — who was a master."

Those without relatives in the know can join groups like the Eastern Penn Mushroomers to gain knowledge.

Club president John Dawson said the group was formed in Lancaster in 1994 and that EPM often holds walks in Lancaster County Central Park.

"We organize forays in various places," he said. "Park and gaming ground is best, because picking the mushrooms is permitted."

The amateur mycologist said people join EPM for different reasons.

"I'm interested in nature photography and the biology of fungi, but others like to find wild mushrooms for gourmet purposes," Dawson said. "Others are hikers who enjoy the challenge of identifying the different types of fungi."

One of the club's gourmet coordinators, John Snyder, said he enjoys the "hunting and gathering" aspect of mushroom seeking.

"I think it's instinctive for humans," he said. "And wild mushrooms have an incredible level of flavor, something we appreciate at our group's tasting events.

"And it's just rewarding to have that kind of specialized knowledge that allows you to pick the good one from the bad. Because, you know, picking mushrooms can be dangerous if you don't know what to look for."

Dawson stressed that hunting wild mushrooms for the table is not something to be pursued casually.

"You have to learn the individual species of mushrooms," he said. "We can teach people these things, and there's also books and field guides you can study.

"In time, it's just something you get better at," Dawson said. "You just have to start out carefully, learning the mushrooms that are easy to identify — like puffballs, which are large and white and almost impossible to confuse with anything else. Before you know it, you'll be identifying all the types like a pro."

If you are thinking of becoming a fungi aficionado — either as a hunter or a chef — Pennsylvania is a fitting place to start.

Pennsylvania is home to the annual Mushroom Festival, a two-day September event in Kennett Square — the heart of mushroom country. In Lancaster County, Funk's Farm Market and Garden Center will hold a Mushroom Mania! event this week, Thursday through Saturday, where mushroom dishes and recipes can be sampled.

The commonwealth is a hot spot for commercial mushroom farming, with nearly half of the nation's production taking place in or around Chester County.

Gov. Ed Rendell declared September Mushroom Month in 2005. Pennsylvania mushroom producers grow 465 million pounds of mushrooms annually — a product valued at more than $379 million a year.

Nutritionists also have been marveling over mushrooms' nutritional value.

They're an excellent source of selenium, potassium and copper. Many varieties even have significant amounts of three B-complex vitamins.

Jim Angelucci, the general manager of Phillips Mushroom Farm in Kennett Square, said hunters, health fanatics and amateur gourmets all have contributed to fungi's recent popularity.

"The emerging research on the mushroom's health benefits has definitely helped marketing," he said. "People are moving away from processed and fatty foods, and mushrooms are low in calories and fat.

"They also have a higher amino acid count than peanuts, corn and kidney beans," he said. "Not to mention antioxidants."

Amateur chefs also are hip to the versatility of the mushroom, he said.

Portabello, shiitake, crimini and white mushrooms are the most common cultivated varieties, but the more exotic mushrooms — morel, oyster, beech, enoki and maitake — are gaining popularity.

"There's nothing better than a fresh porcini," Angelucci said. "They have an earthy flavor you can taste on the back of the tongue.

"See, people who love to eat mushrooms talk about them like wine lovers talk about merlot," he said. "They use words like hearty, zesty, earthy — it becomes a connoisseur thing."

Angelucci said he respects studious mushroom fanciers who pick edible fungi in the wild, but recommends that they are careful.

"I got this rhyme from a friend of mine: There are old mushroom hunters, and bold mushroom hunters, but no bold and old mushroom hunters," he said. "There's a lot of varieties out there in the woods. You have to be cautious."

For the record, mushroom farmers grow their product in pasteurized compost or pasteurized sawdust — not unprocessed manure.

David Geiser, a mycologist with the Penn State Mushroom Research Laboratory was clear on this point.

"What starts out as manure is highly processed until it's mushroom compost — enriched soil," he said. "There's no bad microbes in it, and it is safe."

So, anyone too nervous to hunt mushrooms in the wild doesn't have to worry about the safety of grocery-store variety.

Dawson said no one has anything to fear as long they're responsible and take the time to learn their fungi varieties.

"Hunting mushrooms is such a pleasant activity," he said. "Some varieties are really beautiful, and it gives you an excuse to hike in the fall, late summer and part of spring — when mushrooms are in season.

"For a long time, we've had 15 core members in EPM, but now there's about 60 people who have been coming around," he said. "We have a good time, because, you know, fungi is fun."

The Eastern Penn Mushroomers Web site is epennmushroomers.org.

Funk's Farm Market and Garden Center is located on South Duke Street For more information about Funk's Mushroom Mania! Call 872-8411.

E-mail: cdifonzo@lnpnews.com